Recently I attended a convention in Massillon–always a pleasure, since the town, laden with wonderful architecture, sits smack on the Lincoln Highway and I usually manage to drive at least some of this wonderful road there and back. Having grown up just off the Lincoln Highway in Indiana between LaPorte and South Bend, where the main drags are–ahem–called “Lincolnway,” driving old highways is simply in my blood. (More on Indiana’s stretch, which has recently been designated a state scenic byway, another day.) In recent years, going to this particular convention has given me a good excuse to explore thoroughly our neighboring state’s stretch of this historic road.
Van Wert is the first town of consequence, if you are following the Lincoln Highway eastward from Indiana. A county seat, it boasts an over-the-top nineteenth century courthouse and other wonderful downtown delights. In the next block from the courthouse is Balyeat’s (Balyeats Coffee Shop ). It has an incredible oversized neon sign decades old offering “young fried chicken,” which borders on the horrifying today, but is so darn cool! In truth we did not stop there on the way eastward, but did catch it on the way back, shortly before its closing on Sunday night. They’d had a big day and were out of a lot of food, but what they served–basic American homecooking fare–certainly made me want to go back another time. Besides, did I mention how cool the sign is? Balyeat’s atmosphere and location right across from that courthouse is the kind of place where you can imagine all the town’s moving and shaking has been going on–well, since 1924.
The Wayne County courthouse in Wooster is the only one I have seen in all my travels that is part of a city block, not set apart. (The Steuben County courthouse in Angola, Indiana sits in a corner of the square, but it is still a separate building.) This amazing Second Empire monument to excess was built 1877-79. My jaw still drops.
This intersection lies north of a sort of square on which is located one of the most charming places to plot a revolution I’ve ever encountered. (And from its window one can gaze at the courthouse.) The Tulipan Hungarian Pastry & Coffee Shop is likely as close to Budapest as I’ll ever get. The pastries and Hungarian delicacies inspire rapturous praise. I have tasted nothing ordinary here, let alone bad. While the selections of pastries are vast, Tulipan also offers a menu of entrees that includes delicious open-face sandwiches and rolled omelets, something I had not ever seen before. Light, savory, and deceptively filling, I recommend them all. We stopped there for some pastry (it’s only 20-odd miles from Massillon) and kept to our plan of stopping there for lunch on the way home. The only problem is that it has such a wonderful feel about it that it is difficult to leave.
Massillon, our destination and site of an annual classic film convention in the fall, is a wonderfully historic town, on a river and formerly on a canal, with all the above-ground archaeology associated with such a past. I had always passed and looked longingly at this interesting little drive-in on the west side of town, but this time finally stopped. It was a delightful surprise to discover it offered not only an array of ice cream treats, but a sizable food menu that included a variety of tasty sandwiches and salads.
A little research after my return home revealed that there are a number of these buildings around the country, with several in Ohio. (Read about them here Twistee Treat). Ironically, I had happened to spot one in Niagara Falls earlier this year.
Oh, so many wonders on Ohio’s Lincoln Highway! The return trip included that stop back in Wooster at Tulipan–and also a stolen hour at an amazing bookstore half a block away called Books in Stock (Books In Stock: Used, Rare and Antique Books) that is a dangerous place (you will never get away!) But there is one more food stop I must mention.
The stretch of the old highway between Wooster and Mansfield is especially beautiful. Just east of Mansfield is the tiny village of Mifflin. Its main business is the Mifflin Lakes Trading Post, which is one of the few places you may hear someone order 3 dozen nightcrawlers and two scoops of chocolate ice cream. The storekeeper does wash thoroughly between orders. This place has a huge supply of every sort of bait and lure you could possibly imagine, along with hunting gear I’ve never dreamed of–and ice cream. Good ice cream, never mind the crickets.
Old highways, as I said, are in my blood, and the Lincoln Highway never stops calling me. There is a stretch of the road in Ohio I’ve not yet seen, from Massillon to East Liverpool (home of all that wonderful pottery). I’m going back later this month. You can bet there will be a stop at Tulipan!
Tulipan is a really excellent place, always top-notch food.
Hi,My name is Paul Benninghoff. I currently am a member of the Dyer Historical Society. I was the president of the DHS for two years in the past. I have even published a book as a fundraiser for the DHS through Arcadia Publishing called Dyer. I presently write for a local website called Region Rambler (regionrambler.com) which focuses on people, places, events and other points of interest in Lake and Porter Counties in Indiana.I would very much like to write a piece on the ORIGINAL route of the Lincoln Highway through this area. I also hope to have a companion video of me driving this route and stopping at certain points of interest. Could you please send me information of the original route the old highway took through Lake and Porter Counties? It would be greatly appreciated.Paul A. BenninghoffDHS memberRR writer
Well, I have driven this route (as well as the later post-World War I route) several times and have photographed much along the way. I’m from LaPorte County near the former Bob’s Corner, famous in old postcards, at what used to be the junction of SR2 and US20 (present Oak Knoll Road in this vicinity is the old LH, and this stretch later became part of US20 and part of SR2. Not as complicated as it sounds if you grew up there!)
More or less in Porter County you follow SR2–the oldest versions thereof–into Valparaiso downtown and hook up into OLD 30, through Deep River (an interesting old mill there), Merrillville downtown, Schererville, and Dyer–which of course you know about. Really, above-ground archaeology such as street names, building types, and such will keep you to the path.
hi, i am wanting to meet a friend at a really cute bed and breakfast or hotel/motel near the delphos area. we are meeting halfway between peru, in and mansfield, oh. can you suggest a place? i have tried many searches, but can’t find much other than chain hotels. something in the country would be nice. we are traveling the historic route 30. thanks
Well, offhand I cannot think of any place to stay in Delphos except the Arrow Motel, a nice piece of roadside architecture, although some of my sources say this is now closed. I wouldn’t claim to be the expert on knowing where places are to stay, however.
The old Lincoln Highway is beautiful from Delphos to Van Wert, and there you can eat at Balyeat’s, which I do highly recommend. Good luck!
i loved your intention to help people by writing these posts, thanks for it.
this was a lovely article to read.